Ingredients

2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt (16 ounces), preferably Greek 

6 tablespoons vegetable oil 

1 teaspoon brown mustard seed 

20 fresh curry leaves, plus more for garnish 

2 teaspoons grated peeled fresh ginger 

10 fresh, small hot chiles, such as serrano or Thai (2 seeded and chopped; 8 whole) 

1 teaspoon turmeric 

2 teaspoons coarse salt 

1 teaspoon sugar 

Store-bought papads and dried persimmons, for serving (optional) 

Preparation

Put yogurt in a medium bowl. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add 1/2 teaspoon mustard seed. Cook, shaking, until seeds pop, about 45 seconds. Add curry leaves; cook until starting to wilt, about 1 minute. Add ginger and chopped chiles. Cook, stirring, 30 seconds. Stir in turmeric. Pour mixture over yogurt. Stir in salt and sugar. Transfer to a serving dish.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add 1/2 teaspoon mustard seed and the whole chiles. Cook, shaking, until seeds pop, about 45 seconds. Garnish dip with chile mixture and curry leaves. Serve with papads and persimmons, if desired.